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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.